Lost in the Ecuadorian Amazon (Part 1)

After the Galapagos, a trip to the Amazon was our second top priority in South America (even if we did worry about packing all the ‘fun’ things into the first month of our trip!)

We were picked up from the crater early in the morning and after a long, winding journey of about four hours, then a short boat ride over the river, we arrived at our new home for the next week.

We were quickly checked in and debriefed about jungle behavior…for example; always check inside your shoes before you put them (yikes!), never walk alone at night (why not!?). Once the hosts deemed us suitably freaked out we went straight off to do a rain forest hike. Fortunately, we were accompanied by a local guide of the Kichwa tribe named Domingo. At a very youthful looking 68 years old he was a tribal elder and also happened to be a Shaman.

Domingo took great pride in pointing out all the plants that could harm us (a lot), all the plants we could eat (one) and especially all the healing properties of a properly prepared plant. Now we are very open to natural remedies, at least for minor ailments, however, the more we walked the more Domingo’s tales of healing…well, developed. Towards the end he talked about a plant that when boiled properly works as a contraceptive (he has 8 children and 27 grandchildren so…) and then a plant that ‘healed’ his diabetes (although something might have been lost in translation. We can’t use that disclaimer enough).

He took us on a winding path to arrive at what he claimed was the oldest tree in the forest. He estimated to us the tree was about 200 years old (though comparing notes with other guests, their guide said it was about 500 years old. So to be safe, we will just say it was a big and old tree).

After leaving the big tree behind, we started on the path out of the jungle. However, we seemed to quickly head off any existing path, and Domingo was in front of us using his machete to clear a path as we went. We seemed to wander a bit, and I felt certain that Domingo wasn’t quite sure where we were going. Fortunately it was mid-day and we were clearly in the vicinity of the exit we were seeking, but I think it is clear to say we were, at least briefly, lost in the Amazon!

With our skepticism of Domingo growing, he pulled a vine off of a tree and said something along the lines of ‘and you use this to climb a tree.’ He claimed one night he was lost in the jungle, and thus, forced to spend the night. He heard the growl of a jaguar and used the vine to climb the tree to escape and spend the night on the top. We looked at the thin vine, the huge tree, and as discreetly as possible, at Domingo’s girth and gave each other quizzical side glances. He must have noticed because he quickly and very obligingly fashioned the vine into a lasso of sorts, wrapped it around his legs and then effortlessly shimmied up the tree all the time laughing at us. As we watched this 68 year old marvel sliding up a tree, our skepticism evaporating in the sapping humidity, all we could think was ‘which plant was it that cures diabetes and how do we market it?’

Our last interaction with Domingo came towards the end of our week when he performed a Shaman ceremony designed to rid us of evil or negative spirits. He explained that the ceremony he performs helps people with minor ailments and psychological issues. The plants likewise help minor ailments, but he happily admitted that people with major problems go to the hospital. He then performed the ceremony, which was a gentle kind of massage with a branch and leaves and some rhythmic chanting. It was very meditative and we were completely sold. After it we all felt really great…the power of meditation and the placebo effect.